A Whirlwind Tour with the Tasmanian Devil!

If you fly 7,400 miles to get to New Zealand, it's silly to not fly another 1,200 miles to reach Tasmania, right? It seemed logical enough to us. So, on day 22 of the trip, we did just that.

Come along on a devilish 12-day tornadic tour of the world's 26th largest island  Tasmania!

Here's how you do it: Fill a tumbler with your favorite cool beverage, fire up the barbie, and ready yourself for an always awesome Picture-n-Caption format presentation ... and relax ... it's SUMMMERTIME down under!

No worries, mate! 

Let's begin, shall we?
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Hobart
Australia ... ah, the land of penal colonies.

That's what happens when you have an empire so vast that you can send your undesirables to the other side of the globe. Britain founded Hobart for this purpose in 1804, never mind what the Aboriginal Tasmanians thought about this after being there for 35,000 years.

Oopsies!

Today, Hobart's a bustling city that doesn't feel very big, has all the comforts of home, and is a perfect hub for exploring southeast Tasmania.

MONA
Just a 20-minute speed-ferry ride up the Derwent River from Hobart is MONA — The Museum of Old and New Art — the Southern Hemisphere's largest private museum.

Opened in 2011, MONA is amazing! Most of the museum is contained in an underground labyrinth and features a crazy and wide variety of art installations, though not all are kid friendly. One hall contained adult-only art that sometimes made even me wince! As I exited the hall, a mom and dad — with kids in tow — were debating going in. I offered, "No, probably not a good idea." Had they gone in, they would have spent the rest of the day explaining certain facts of life ... and related human idiosyncrasies.

I like to think I prevented a life-altering disaster. Go me!

Pictured above is one of my favorite exhibits. I kid you not ... when I saw this from above, where I snapped this image, the illusion was so powerful that I thought I was looking down onto a platform above an abyss lit from below. It didn't make sensory sense. I went downstairs and took a turn walking the plank. The plank is actually a waist-high walled walkway extending out into a pool of pitch-black oil. The oil comes to the very, very tip-top of the walkway walls. It's super cool ... and oily.


Ramen noodles as art
In a large room at MONA, there's an oversized plate on the floor with ramen noodles and their package. Is that really art worthy of MONA? But a closer look reveals that the noodles are really rubber bands, with their box in the middle. Weird, yes, but still, is that really art worthy?

I don't know, but it sure is fun when you learn that the challenge is to put your whole body through the rubber band. I shed my coat and camera and gave it a try, starting with my head and moving the rubber band down toward my feet.

Did I meet the challenge? Did the rubber band snap? I'm not telling. But you can see how it turned out on this video!

MONA was a day well spent!


Wally the wallaby
Now I feel bad. You see, pictured above is my lunch at MONA, featuring wallaby. I had heard that wallaby is a nuisance species, ergo, I was not only satisfying my need for nourishment but helping the Tasmanian conservation effort at the same time.

Now, back home, I learned from the Interwebs that they're kind of like deer — a nuisance to some but not to others.

I'll say this: It was a very tasty lunch! Sorry, Wally.

Fun fact: Tasmania produces 85% of the world's legal opiates. On occasion, wallabies have managed to sneak into the guarded fields, graze on poppies ... and then hop around in drug-induced circles! Whacked-out wandering, wobbling wallabies!

Fun fact: Like in New Zealand, there's no tipping in Tasmania. What's more, in virtually all cases, we were not even given the chance to tip; you tap your card, watch or phone on the card reader and done! There's simply no expectation of a tip.

Fun fact: In 34 days of travel, we used cash ZERO times. Natalie found a New Zealand coin on a sidewalk and brought it home. We're hoping this won't cause a currency imbalance resulting in an international incident. You just never know these days. Shhhh! Mum's the word.


Christmas in summer
Even though the days were getting longer and warmer, there were plenty of prompts to jump into the holidays. TV ads with Santa were plentiful, and Black Friday sales were in full swing. We even witnessed holiday goers dressed as Santas on a pub crawl. It almost felt like home.

We also noticed that Christmas lights down under are sparse. What do the people of Oceana have against Christmas lights? Nothing really. But it's summer and, by the time the holidays roll around, there are many more hours of daylight than darkness; there's no one awake to "oooh" and "aaah" over pretty Christmas light displays.

Not so fun fact: Advertising, fast-food franchises, and TV shows have a less-than-subtle American influence. Anyone up for a bucket of KFC and binging the new season of Love Island — Australia or The Real Housewives of Melbourne? (Yes, these shows exist.)


South Lynne
We stayed in some interesting places over the five weeks; most were pretty good. However, our place in Dunedin (New Zealand) was a certifiable mansion that just freaked me out. So big and creepy! It would make a great shoot location for a chainsaw horror movie. Simon and Natalie liked it more. 

I'm gradually learning to look at the pretty online pictures of accommodations and then bring my expectations down a notch or two.

Quick tip: Take note of what the online pictures don't show. For example, if there are no photos of the kitchen, it's likely because the kitchen sucks.

Still, our place in Launceston, Tasmania, exceeded expectations. A crazy-nice art deco home (pictured above), South Lynne was cozy, clean and as picture-perfect as advertised!


Dali
Launceston, in Tasmania's north, isn't where we expected to run into an exhibit of Salvador Dali's art, but it's there!

Dali's paintings and drawings were super fun to see up close. My favorite was the original photograph, "Dali Atomicus." My photo of his photo is lacking, so go here to see a better image and read the incredible story of its creation: The Story Behind "Dali Atomicus," One of the Most Influential Photographs Ever Taken.

Do you think we could throw cats around like that today? Nah ... probably not. 


Jacob's Ladder
A day trip from Launceston, Jacob's Ladder in Ben Lomond National Park, was an attention grabber. This 11-mile gravel road is listed on Dangerous Roads primarily due to the six steep single-track hairpin switchbacks nears its top.

We simply had to drive this road!

At the top of Jacob's exhilarating ladder is a massive plateau hosting the Ben Lomond Alpine Resort — Tasmania's only commercial ski area. Being late spring, everything was closed, and because it was super windy and cold, we decided hiking in freezing fog was less fun than we thought.

At the start of the road, the gal at the coffee shop (serving coffee with marshmallows), told us the road almost never closes due to weather. I'm not so sure about those single-track switchbacks on icy roads. It's steep and narrow.


Cheer up ... or I'll eat you
New Zealand has wildlife, but Tasmania has it in spades.

During our brief exploration of the Ben Lomond ski area, Simon spotted one, then two, then many wallabies!

This group of wallabies didn't seem bothered much by the weather or us. They were dedicated to munching scrub brush. But this close encounter did bring one thing to the forefront: Wallabies look perpetually pissed. Like, "Don't come any closer or I'll kickbox you into oblivion!"

I'm pretty sure this is why they're considered food.

We saw many other creatures in the wild too such as echidna, wombat, kookaburra, a variety of parrots (including the green rosella), potoroo, and even a baby Tasmanian devil desperately crawling up a road embankment to get away from our car.

Unfortunately, for many of these creatures, being nocturnal is not a bonus when it comes to playing chicken with cars ... because the cars win. The roadway evidence of this was remarkable. In fact, in some areas, the posted nighttime speed limit is just 40 mph, perhaps so the animals have a sporting chance to win now and then. Go animals!


Cradle Mountain
Cradle Mountain is not the tallest mountain in Tasmania, but it's probably the most photographed one. It's a must see on the island. Once again, we got lucky. We had one specific day to visit Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park. The day started windy and rainy, but the clouds parted for our hike around Dove Lake. Above and at center, Little Horn is on the left and Cradle Mountain is on the right.

There were hordes of other tourists taking the shuttle buses to the visitor center where the hike begins. We thought we were destined for a crowded trail. Nope! It seems very few who start the four-mile lake circuit complete it. There were remarkably few fellow hikers after the first half mile. We were OK with that!


Bay of Fires
Along the northeastern coast — near Binalong Bay — is the Bay of Fires. At first glance, it's easy to think the name is derived from the bright red lichen-covered granite boulders. But NO! The bay was so named in the 1770s after explorers saw the fires of Aboriginal people living along the bay.

Fast forward to our visit, and wildfires were already in play on Tasmania, burning in the south and north. Dry weather is one thing, but it doesn't help that the most abundant tree is the highly flammable eucalyptus. Although it's a native species, it's also favored as timber and widely planted. It's interesting to note that Portugal also has a eucalyptus-fed wildfire problem ... but their trees are not native. They were introduced in the 18th century from ... wait for it ... Australia!

Oopsies!


Soaking up the Down Under
Here we are at our very best ... just for you!

Well ... maybe not our VERY best.

Actually, not great at all.

We can't even keep our eyes open!

We'll NEVER make it as Instagram influencers!


And there you have it, a devilishly spinning Tasmanian tour — and we didn't even see the west side of the island!

Our Oceana trip was a whirlwind of 34 days flying, driving, hiking ... and even a hot tub ... yet somehow, we didn't get sick!

Will there be another TourAlongWithTodd blog post in 2026? Of course! 

Stay tuned.

Until then ... ciao!




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And now, a BONUS ...

PICTURES! ... carefully curated with you in mind.

The blog post only tells one part of the story ... the photo album fills in the rest. They go hand in hand ... like opium-dazed wallabies hopping in circles together in a lush poppy meadow on a sunny summer's day!

Seriously, there are events in the album that aren't in the blog at all.

Each photo includes a brief caption so you know what you're looking at.

Here's how to make the most of viewing the photo album:

  1. Click this link to access the album.
  2. When the album displays, click the Play slideshow icon in the upper right corner.
  3. As soon as the slideshow begins to play, click the Pause slideshow icon at the lower center (you can also click the Full screen button to maximize the image size on your screen).
  4. Now you can advance the slideshowat your own pace, image by imageusing the right or left arrows at the bottom center of the screen.
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Like the TourAlongWithTodd blog and want to keep up to date?
Email me at todd@toddchavez.com and I’ll add you to the list!




Down Under with Sheep and a Fergburger!

There's a land far, far away with verdant fields and towering mountains.  A land that's home to lucky sheep and lucky people. A land of rainforests and glaciers. A land that serves the world's best hamburger ...

Are you ready to visit a land WAY down under? Yes?

Well, grab a cup of your favorite beverage and cozy up in a sheepskin blanket for a journey far, far away.

Presented in the forever popular picture-n-caption format ...

It's time to go to New Zealand!

Let's begin ... shall we?

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Banks Peninsula
Just over the hill from the hustle and bustle of Christchurch, Banks Peninsula was a perfect landing spot for us to start the adventure.

Above, Natalie surveys Lyttleton bay, a shield volcano caldera. The port of Lyttleton in the foreground and Diamond Harbourwhere we stayedacross the bay. This caldera, and the larger Akaroa caldera, form Banks Peninsula.

Today, the area is less explosive and would be a pretty nice place to live.


The Finger of God (and single-track roads)
Prepping for a trip inevitably involves searching the Interwebs for fun and unique places to visitplaces that aren't overwhelmed by other adventure seekers or much worse ... Instagram posers! Simon found an attraction on Google Maps named The Finger of God. We navigated our way along a single-track road and there it was.

Yep, you're looking at ita tree stump slightly resembling a hand and finger pointing up. You're welcome!

Is there a lesson here? Yes. Find weird things, then name and pin them on Google Maps. It's fun for everyone.

Fun fact: For a period of time, a very large pool of water formed at a WinCo grocery store's parking lot here in Boise when it rained heavily. Someone pinned it on Google Maps ... and "Lake WinCo" was born. Google later removed it because the people at Google are no fun. So, get out there and show Google who's boss ... or at least harass them.

Later in the day we took another single-track "shortcut" over a very, very large and tall hill. We met one other car on the track, luckily at a switchback corner that allowed us to maneuver past one another without having to back up. The track was super narrow and steepeven losing traction and spinning wheels a few times. Natalie thought it was fun. Natalie was not driving.  


Christchurch
We had two days in Christchurch. On the first day, there was a wind-swept misty rain soaking everything in its path ... including us. The second day was much better.

Christchurch (metro pop. 550,000) is the largest city on the South Island and second largest in New Zealand overall next to Auckland. We had a much better time on the sunny day with plenty of things to see and good things to eat suiting almost any taste. It's very metropolitan.

It's easy to visit the Christchurch and forget that, since 2010, it has endured two powerful earthquakes, two large wildfires at the city's edges, and a horrible mass shooting at two mosques that killed scores.

Sorry to be a Debbie Downer, but this city has had a rough go of it. It's clear that the people of Christchurch boast resilience.


Mt. Cook
Because I'm not an early riser, Natalie and Simon doubted I could achieve my goal of leaving Twizel by 7:00 a.m. to beat the crowds to Mt. Cook's parking lot, about an hour's drive if you don't stop to take photos.

Well, we did leave at 7:00, and I did stop to take photos! By 9:30, we arrived, actually beating most of the crowd. But what a day for hikes in the Mt. Cook area! We took on four hikes and celebrated our success with a coffee and snack at the Mt. Cook Lodge. It was here that Natalie ordered an iced tea. She was rewarded with a cup of hot tea ... and a cup of ice. Apparently, it was make your own iced tea day at 
Mt. Cook Lodge. Nice!

On blue sky days like this one, the companies running sightseeing planes and helicopters go crazy shuttling people up and around the mountain for a view. We thought, "Hey, let's do this; we only live once. Right?" We stopped at the airstrip and inquired. A 25-minute flight was $350 per person. Then we thought, "Hey, let's not do this. Right?"

Still, it was a spectacular day at Mt. Cook.


Hello to you too
Down the east coast of the South Island, we stopped at Shag Point where, as advertised, there were fur seals! The seals spend time lounging on the rocks, sleeping and otherwise resting. The seal pictured here provided hilarious entertainment for the 6th-grader in all of us: It moved from its slumber spot, wiggled its butt over the edge, pooped, and moved back to the slumber spot. 

How does a plate of "Today's fresh catch" sound now?

Another animal that you won't easily see are the kiwi ... unless you're willing to submit to the kiwis' terms, like going to the right locations, looking for them at dusk or dawn, and being very quiet. Sheesh, New Zealand picked the wrong mascot! But you can purchase all sorts of kiwi-related trinkets in stores. I think that counts as seeing one. So, yes, we saw hundreds of kiwi.

The other bird that's endemic to New Zealand is the moa. Ostrich-like, standing up to 10 feet tall and weighing as much as 550 pounds, the moa is really difficult to see in the wild. This is primarily because humans killed them all by 1445 or so.

Go humans!


Waterfall tramping
Further down the east coast is a series of waterfalls. Pictured here (look closely on the right), Simon and Natalie strike appropriate poses at McLean Falls.

We had a bit of a hike to reach each of the falls. Note that hiking here is called "tramping" and trails are called "tracks." So, you tramp on tracks. And, after having reached a certain level of tramping competency, you receive a tramp stamp.

We have yet to receive our tramp stamps, but apparentlywhen it happensits customary to have the tramp stamp tattooed on your lower back. We can't wait!


Moeraki Boulders
The Moeraki Bouldersabout an hour north of Dunedin on the east coastare spherical boulders of mud, fine silt, and clay cemented together by calcite ... up to seven feet in diameter. They're pretty amazing to see up close.

What's also amazing is that there are only 50 of these boulders in various states of being buried in sand ... and how many you see is at the whim of the surf. About 20 were up for a view when we visited. What's even more amazing is that there's a large visitor center/store/restaurant built to serve the masses of tourists coming to see the boulders.

Being tourists ourselves, we didn't mind so much.

After boulder watching, we enjoyed a snack at the restaurant. I don't remember what Simon had, but Natalie had a hokey pokey ... and she liked it! Hey, get your mind out of the gutter ... hokey pokey's an ice cream!

I had a chocolate milkshake. This is when I found out that a chocolate shake down under has little to do with ice cream. From what I could tell, it's chocolate milk ... shaken up! Back home on the Interwebs, I learned that, if you want it made with ice cream, you should ask. C'mon, New Zealand! ALWAYS use ice cream!

Oh well. Next time, I'll go in for a good ol' hokey pokey with Natalie!


Baldwin Street
Some odd things come along on a trip, like this one: Welcome to Baldwin Street in Dunedin, the world's steepest street. Not that long ago, the people of Dunedin had to defend the street's steepness status, but they prevailed, and with the Guinness World Records' nod, it remains the steepest!

Getting to the top of Baldwin Street is a hike, and tourist cars are not permitted to drive up and down it. However, such restrictions don't stop people from doing other things, like:
  • Iain Clark rollerskated up the street.
  • Harry Willis pogo-sticked up the street.
  • What will Todd do when he returns?


Milford Sound: Fat lip and a stick tip!
There's probably nothing more iconic in New Zealand than the image of Mitre Peak at Milford Sound in Fiordland. Looming 5,500 feet above the sea lapping at its base, it's a big mountain.

Like our day at Mt. Cook, we enjoyed unbelievably good weather, especially considering I had booked our Milford Sound day cruise months in advance.

We learned before our trip began that sandflies love to hang out at the sound and bite people, so we came prepared with the appropriate repellant.

We parked, climbed out of the car, and before I could finish applying repellant, my upper lip began to swell. "Curse you, you stupid ugly sandfly!"

Fat lip and all, we had time before the cruise to walk about and take photos. At one point, I veered off to take a photo and said, "I'll be right back." At that moment I stepped on a long stick that flipped up, with its tip running ... with some vigor ... up my outer right thigh. I tumbled to the ground while simultaneous shouting, "Fliberty-flu-darn it all to gosh!"

There's no recording of my exclamation, but I'm pretty sure that's what I said.

I got over itand my fat lip did recedebefore our cruise. It was only later that my injury showed its true colors, six inches of angry crimson stripes running up my thigh, surrounded by an oval of purple and yellow bruising. "Curse you, you stupid beach stick!"


Milford Sound
The cruise? It was a blast!

The scenery of the fiords (Kiwis spell it "fiord") was really something to see on a sunny afternoon after the rains the day before. The smaller boat we booked was able to get up close and personal with the towering rock walls and waterfalls, and along the way, we saw fur seals and a Fiordland crested penguin! (yep, just one penguin)

Fun fact: Milford Sound has served as a backdrop for a number of movies including Mission: Impossible - Fallout, X-Men Origins: Wolverine, Willow, and of course, The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies.


You gotta get a Fergburger!!!
Have you noticed that there are people who post pictures suggesting what you must see AND eat when visiting any location you can think of?

And then there are people who see these pictures and make great effort to see and eat what the picture-posters suggested! Losers! I'm glad I don't fall victim to that manipulation.

So, I was researching what to see and eat in New Zealand, and I noted multiple references to Fergburger in Queenstown. These references warned of long lines
but insisted the burgers were worth the effort.

Fergburger in downtown Queenstown opens at 7:00 a.m. and closes at 2:30 a.m. As you can see, there's a very long line, but it moved pretty quickly. And OMG! The burgers really are that good!


Fergburger
Don't let the fresh, crispy leaf lettuce fool you! The shy but delicious Fergburger, all dressed up in special sauce and melted cheese, is ready to come out and jump in your belly!

I think you should book a flight to Queenstown right now and enjoy a Fergburger immediately upon landing! There's a good chance they'll be open!

Fun fact: Tipping is not a thing in New Zealand (neither is using cash). This makes a huge difference when trying local cuisine. Our three deluxe burgerswith a large order of fries to sharewas US$40! The current exchange rate helped a lot in this calculation, but still ... go get a Fergburger!*

*As of this writing, neither Todd Chavez nor his representatives have received compensation for promotional references to Fergburger. But change is within your grasp. With just two minutes of your time, you can contact the wonderful people at Fergburger and tell them that Todd is their greatest champion in the Americas and that they should sponsor his TourAlongWithTodd travel blog!


Surprise!
We were in Queenstown for one day. After enjoying Fergburgers, we headed to Skyline Queenstown! At Skyline, we rode the gondola up the ski hill and then rode luge-like go-karts back down.

Our ticket bought us six runs ... kind of spendy but a ton of fun on a sunny summer day. We enjoyed racing each other and reached frightening speeds with extraordinary precision. In fact, I'm still miffed that a Formula 1 team hasn't reached out to us yet.  

Weeks before, back in Boise, Simon chatted with a coworker and learned that he too was traveling to New Zealand when we would be there, but alas, our itineraries didn't overlap. 
After a run or two, and back in line for the next gondola ride up, a voice shouted, "Simon, no way!"

And there was Simon's coworker, Gabe! His plans changed somewhere along the way, and there you have it. It is a small world after all.


Sheep, where do they go?
There are 24 million sheep on New Zealand, and that's down from 70 million just over 40 years ago. It's pretty hard not to see sheep.

But where do New Zealand's sheep go when ... well, you know ... their time is up?

You'd think that New Zealanders would be throwing lamb shanks and balls of sheep-wool yarn at every passerby. These did not happen, and we saw no effort to promote buying things derived from sheep at grocery stores or otherwise.

Turns out, New Zealand sheep, alive (lambs) or in pieces and parts, are sent primarily to Asia, and then everywhere else. Baaa!

We took many pictures of New Zealand sheep and learned one thing: You have to look like you're NOT going to take their picture and then, at the very last moment, swing around and snap the shot! If they have ANY sense that you're a sheep paparazzi, you'll end up with an image filled with sheep butts as they run away from you. Stealth is the name of the game.


Three-legged lamb
Lamb shank was on the menu a few times ... and I did what I could to keep the number of three-legged lambs increasing! So much MEAT!

I'm pretty sure they let the three-legged ones live as an act of compassion. Besides, you can't put three-legged lambs on boats to send to distant lands; they'd tip over every time there's a big wave! Baaa!


Wanaka Tree
The Wanaka Tree started out as a live willow branch used as a fence post at Lake Wanaka. The post sprouted, the rest of the fence went away, and today you have the Wanaka Tree!

And THEN, the Interwebs got on board with the tree as a "thing," resulting in the Wanaka Tree being photographed ... a lot!

And there we were, walking as fast as we could along Lake Wanaka to get to the tree while the setting sun's light was still on it. We made it ... and we got the shot with a pied cormorant stretching its wings to boot!


Wildwire!
Here, Simon and Natalie are without a care in the world ... swinging on swings. Earlier in the day, things had been very different ... when they were perched perilously high above the valley floor!

Wildwire is one of maybe two established via ferrata climbing areas in New Zealand. A 30-minute drive from Wanaka, Wildwire's route didn't look like much from the ground, just another steep rocky mountain gully with a waterfall or two.

1,000 feet above the valley later, Wildwire was a true highlight of the trip. The next few photos take you along for the climb.


Highwire walker
Simon negotiating the somewhat damp highwire. Yes, there are guidewires for the arms and hands, but it's a pretty narrow and bouncy cable to walk on!


From dry to soaked in five seconds or less!
The mid-cliff water-crossing was pretty straightforward, but we were so glad it was a sunny day because the waterfall's gale force mist took us from dry to soaked in about five seconds, seriously!


It gets steep!
There were moments when it got really steep ... and that seemed just fine with Natalie!


Smile for the camera
Simon shows the cliff who's boss. He warned the cliff about his terrifying Chuck Norris roundhouse kick ... The cliff was smart. It backed off.


Getting high
A family that gets high together, stays together.

Wait, what did I say? Why are there police knocking at my door!?

NOTE: In the photo, Brian, from Canada, was our other climbing mate.


Phil
Philhailing from the UKwas a great guide. She had a confident, relaxing style about her.


Where glacier meets jungle
It seems out of place because hiking through a temperate rainforest is not where you'd expect to catch glimpses of Fox Glacier's tongue descending from alpine peaks looming above. But there it was.

This time we were on the west side of the Southern Alps, while just two weeks earlier we had been on the east side of the range. The "as the crow flies" distance from there to here? Just 16 miles. To drive around the range from point to point? 285 miles over 6 hours. Crows are lucky.


Gollum
We were never on the hunt for filming locations used in the Lord of The Rings movies ... though some fans make a New Zealand pilgrimage doing just that. But we didn't hesitate to stop when we saw Gollum perched atop the Otira Stagecoach Hotel in Arthur's Pass National Park.

The Otira was established in 1865 as a stop for stagecoaches and later for rail service spurred on by gold mining. When we entered the hotel, we were overwhelmed by the hundreds of crazy odd knick-knacks. This collection obsession has paid off ... they were doing pretty good business when we stopped in for a snack and a look.

By golly Gollum, you got us!


Christmas in another land
It's Nov. 29 and the Christmas season is well underway down under. Lacking Thanksgiving, there's nothing to get in the way the season's celebrations, like the 31st annual Coca-Cola Christmas in the Park. Nothing says "peace on earth, goodwill to men" than an ice-cold Coke!

Kidding aside, this was a fun, chillaxing evening event in Christchurch's Hagley Park, taking place on the last night of our New Zealand odyssey. 


And there you go, three weeks exploring New Zealand's South Island. We had a great time, hiked a lot, saw many sheep butts as they ran away from our cameras, climbed cliffs, witnessed waterfalls, marveled at mountains, and enjoyed Fergburgers. 

Go ... explore, and find your Fergburger.* You'll be glad you did!

*Change is STILL within your reach! Take a moment to contact the wonderful people at Fergburger and tell them that Todd humbly remains their greatest champion in the Americas and looks forward to a long and fruitful sponsorship.



And now, a BONUS

Pictures! ... and I want to share them with you!

The blog post tells one part of the story ... the photo album fills in the rest. They go hand in hand.

Each photo includes a brief caption so you know what you're looking at.

Here's how to make the most of viewing the photo album:

  1. Click this link to access the album.
  2. When the album displays, click the Play slideshow icon in the upper right corner.
  3. As soon as the slideshow begins to play, click the Pause slideshow icon at the lower center (you can also click the Full screen button to maximize the image size on your screen).
  4. Now you can advance the slideshowat your own pace, image by imageusing the right or left arrows at the bottom center of the screen.
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Like the TourAlongWithTodd blog and want to keep up to date? Email me at todd@toddchavez.com and I’ll add you to the list!

Say CHEESE Please - Part Two!

And now for your viewing pleasure! ...

Round two of images from our October odyssey around Iceland's ultimate roundabout, the Ring Road!

Icelander!


To view in slideshow format:

    • Once at the album, click the right-facing arrow in the upper right of the toolbar to start the slideshow.
    • Use the slideshow controls in lower middle of the screen to navigate as the show plays (go back, go forward, pause).

There will TourAlongs in 2025!

Cheers! ~ Todd



Say CHEESE Please!

 And now for Iceland photos!

Say CHEESE Please!


Natalie photo-bombed me at a waterfall, so I'm going to photo-bomb you too ... with the first of two carefully curated albums of images from our trip around Iceland's Ring Road! 

Honestly, a blog post only tells part of the story, and these photoswith mercifully brief captionstell the rest!

To view in slideshow format:

    • Once at the album, click the right-facing arrow in the upper right corner to start the slideshow.
    • Use the slideshow controls in lower middle of the screen to navigate as the show plays (go back, go forward, pause).

Cheers! ~ Todd


Road Trip Iceland's Roundabout!

Iceland! The land of fire and ice! And rain! And snow! And wind!

Are you ready for a fun fall trip featuring Iceland's island-sized roundabout—The Ring Road? How about a proper 21-day drive in every type of weather?

Alrighty then!

Grab a mug of your favorite invigorating Nordic beverage and settle into a cozy couch.

It's time to start this TourAlong ... It's time for an encore trip to ...

Iceland!

Let's begin ... Shall we?


Iceland. Blue Sky Happens!


The Route!

The blue line marks our route, and the red dots mark places we stayed and used as homebases for day trips. Starting with the red dot at nine o'clock and moving clockwise, they were Grundarfjörður, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Höfn, and finally Reykjavik.

In this TourAlong, I've used Icelandic spelling of placenames. So, here's a fun game to play: Say the placenames out loud as you read this post ... and use your best Nordic accent. Trust me, unless you're actually Nordic, there's virtually no way you can pronounce them correctly. It's still fun though. 


Roadblock I Guess*

Iceland has a split personality: Half of the island wants to be North America and the other half wants to be Europe. It's literally tearing the island apart in a sometimes spectacular fashion. In the past year, fissure volcanos on the Reykjanes Peninsula (SW Iceland) have erupted seven times. Dormant for 800 years, this new active period may last up to 200 years.

We made a detour after leaving the Keflavik airport to see the effects of these eruptions. Pictured above is a berm built to divert lava flows away from infrastructure that Iceland would rather not have covered by molten rock. The berms have done their job so far, but I wouldn't rush out and buy land on the peninsula for, let's say, 200 years. Mark that date on your calendar.


*P.S. Kudos to anyone who gets the "Roadblock I guess" reference.


Lava? No Problem!

The volcanic eruptions have taken place near the Svartsengi geothermal power plant and the more well-known Blue Lagoon. The fact that both have not been consumed is due to two well-positioned large volcanic hills and the berms built in the past year. Still, the lava flows have come close ... and very close just weeks ago: The most recent eruption sent a river of lava to the west that completely covered the Blue Lagoon's parking lot.

Amazingly, once the lava field has crusted over, the Icelanders will be quick to lay down new roads (like the one pictured here) and parking lots. They definitely have plenty of raw material for new roads!

During our side trip, I pocketed a piece of fresh earth rock as a souvenir. I've since learned that (a) in Iceland, it's illegal to take rocks from protected areas (though this area is not one) and (b) it's illegal to bring rocks into the United States without having them inspected for microbes and such.

Uh oh!

For a brief diversion, see this five-minute video about how Iceland works to protect places like the Blue Lagoon from being buried by lava:

The Blue Lagoon Sprayed Over Glowing Lava With Good Results.



You'll Never See This Photo Anywhere Else!

Ah, the solitude of a cold sunny morning near Grundarfjörður on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Idyllic waterfalls and a pointy peak ... as long as you don't turn around.


Oh! You Turned Around!

The pointy peak in the previous image is Kirkjufell, likely the most photographed mountain in Iceland, made even MORE famous after it was featured as "Arrowhead Mountain" in the series Game of Thrones. The age of smartphones and Instagram has resulted in one thing for sure: crowds of people gathering to get the same shot.

Fun fact: Natalie took this shot. You can find me kneeling near the top of the photographer scrum.


Picture Perfect Stykkishólmur

Not far from 
Grundarfjörður is Stykkishólmur. With just 1,600 residents, Stykkishólmur spent most of its existence as a sleepy port and fishing village. More recently, it gained notoriety as a shooting location for the 2013 movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. It's a fun movie featuring a number of locations around Iceland. And this notoriety leads to another new tourism pop-culture phenomenon ...




Get Me My Costume!

This is a weird thing. And it really is "a thing" thanks to Instagram, TikTok and other photo-sharing social media platforms. The young woman pictured here was with a vanload of young tourists all focused on getting specific shots at Stykkishólmur's harbor. In this case, we watched as a young man brought her an armload of various costumes to pose in. Others in the group used a drone to video themselves walking across a street, shooting the scene several times. We witnessed this phenomenon in Switzerland last year as well.

Are the posers having fun? Yeah, I think they are. But at the risk of the pot calling the kettle black, it's annoying.

Now, where's my black crime-fighter costume? The light's perfect!



Road Trip!

Driving is fun! Driving in Iceland is fun too! Well, except sometimes. The Ring Road's two lanes are narrow, with no shoulders to speak of, and often have drop-offs that would send a vehicle tumbling in style! Guard rails? How quaint. For excitement, add powerful buffeting winds and a rental car with lane assist that you can't turn off. Now, take all of that and add occasionally snowy conditions. The fun of the drive never ends on an Iceland Ring Road trip in October.

Oh wait, here's a good one:

The day we left 
Egilsstaðir (in the east) for Höfn (in the southeast), all I had to do was get on the Ring Road—literally just outside our hotel's front door. Instead, I drove out of town on a road I was already familiar with. An hour into the drive, we found ourselves on a 20-kilometer gravel/muddy slick and curvy road on a very cold and rainy morning ... and we weren't the only ones! It wasn't so bad, but still a bit unnerving when you're not sure how bad it might get and when it will end. Have a look here: Route 939! (Note: There's no sound on the video. Sorry, I'll bet it was entertaining).


Wow! That Must Have Been One Giant Troll!

The Naustahvilft Troll Seat. That guy left quite an impression ... don't you think? His seat was our destination hike near 
Ísafjörður in the Westfjords (Iceland's NW peninsula).



Ísafjörður From the Troll Seat!

Ísafjörður (pop. 2,750) is the Westfjords' largest community and has a surprising modern feel to it. The fishing industry is big here, as well as tourism.

Fun fact: Ísafjörður's Wikipedia page shows that the town has produced 12 Olympic skiers for Iceland!



Natalie in the Troll Seat!

The trail up to the seat was steep and undefined, but the reward for an undeveloped trail was a pristine grassy boulder-strewn bowl. On the way down, Natalie slipped, got muddy, and broke her prescription sunglasses. I suggest the Troll Seat be on guard: One day Natalie will exact her revenge at a time of her choosing!



Wow! It's a Totally Cool 3D Crosswalk!

The purpose of this optical illusion is to make drivers slow down. It most definitely did not work on me when we drove into town; I didn't notice it. But later, on a walkabout, we couldn't miss it.

Today, the crosswalk is a tourist attraction. The result? Moronic tourists (us) step into the middle of the street to take photos! I guess it all works: Morons step into the street and cars have to slow down. Genius!

To see it in action, view this brief video clip: Ísfjörðaur's Floating 3D Crosswalk.

And here's what it looks like close-up:





Northern Lights, Finally!

Can you believe seeing the northern lights during the day?

Take a good look ...

Because that's definitely NOT them! Pretty vibrant clouds though, right? With vertical bands and everything!

Like our trip to Alaska last May, the aurora was on display multiple nights, but only when we were safely shielded from them by clouds. All the while, friends back home saw them several nights.

Truth be told, we saw them one night ... for about five minutes in windy 19-degree weather. We weren't compelled to hang out to see if they came back.



Hvítserkur the Troll

As the tale goes, Hvítserkur the troll was out late one night, determined to steal the bells from a nearby convent but, when caught by dawn's early light, was instantly turned to stone! According to one website, trolls, unlike elves, are terrified of Christianity. The site didn't elaborate why elves are Christian, but I'm guessing it has to do with Santa Claus. 

I prefer to think of Hvítserkur as a lumbering and very thirsty creature from Star Wars that can also shoot devastating laser beams from its eyes to destroy Imperial Fighters.

Go Hvítserkur!



Paul Bunyan Need Not Apply

Iceland DOES have forests! Once upon a time 40% of the island was covered by trees. But then people (Vikings) happened, and it hasn't been the same since. Today, about 2% of the land is forested, but there's a massive reforestation effort underway. The goal? Have 12% of the land forested by the year 2100.

I think they'll succeed. The 400,000 residents of the planet's 18th largest island seem to get things done ... in almost anything you can think of!



Akureyri

The capital of the north, Akureyri, is Iceland's second-largest city coming in at a whopping 20,000 residents!* But don't let size cloud your thoughts—Akureyri is a thoroughly modern city serving as the hub for the north. It's comfortable there.

*Technically, there are two other cities that are larger, but they're both part of the Reykjavik metro area. So yeah, Akureyri gets my #2 position.



Seeking the Smiley Face

A fun game in Akureyri (and around the country) is the speed camera challenge. If you drive too fast, you get a red frowny face. If you slow down to the speed limit in time, you get a green smiley face! 

I often had to slow down quickly to get the smiley face, but there was true satisfaction in receiving the reward!




Why? Why? Why?

Why, on every trip to Europe, do we encounter nude mannequins on parade in a store's display window? And why do I feel obligated to document these encounters through photos? The world may never know the answers to these compelling questions. One thing though: As long as store workers keep going home while mannequins remain "au natural," I'll keep documenting their work!



Oh, What a Difference a Day Makes!

Four inches of snow announced winter's arrival in north Iceland. We had a good time watching a car slowly spin out of control down our street in Akureyri. The street was soon closed. The amount of snow caught everyone off guard, but the street crews were soon on the task of clearing it up. Oddly, shoveling snow from sidewalks seemed optional; some were soon sheets of ice.

In the upper center of this photo, you can see hints of Akureyri's ski area, Hlíðarfjall.



The Queue!

Faced with the prospect of driving the second half of the Ring Road in a car equipped with all-season tires on icy roads, I sent a note to our car rental companyBlue Car Rentalsaying the tires weren't ideal.* To my surprise, Aron at Blue Car replied and told me to take our car to the Dekkjahöllin tire shop for a change-out to studded snow tires. Amazing!

The queue at the shop that afternoon was so long that police were turning people away so the road wouldn't be blocked.

The next morning I arrived at 7:00, an hour before the shop opened. I was number 21 in the queue. When they opened, it was clear the shop crew had their act together ... I had studs and was on my way at 9:10!

*The Les Schwab Tires website says: "All-season tires are designed for varied but still mild conditions, offering balanced performance from spring to fall." Note, that leaves out that other season ... winter. 



It's Beer Spa Time!

The Bjorbodin Beer Spa is just up the fjord from Akureyri. The phrase "beer spa" conjures images of bathing in ... beer! And that's actually not so far from the truth.

Here's how it works:
  1. Warm up in the outdoor hot tubs as Iceland's fridged winds whip around your head.
  2. Enter a private room to relax while soaking in the residue of some part of the beer-making process while you drink beer from a tap (drinking beer takes your mind off the fact that you're soaking in beer sludge).
  3. Spend 30 minutes relaxing in the meditation room listening to spacy new-age music.
  4. Top it off with time in the wet sauna or back in the hot tubs.
  5. There's a restaurant too ... if you're not too sleepy! Or beery! Or both!
The Bjorbodin Beer Spa claims this all has a beneficial effect. It might be to our health. It might be to their bank account. Either way ... it was fun.



A Pool With a View

You can find the Geosea - Geothermal Sea Baths on the edge of the tiny town of Húsavík, northeast of Akureyri. As you can guess, Húsavík is a fishing town. But, in Iceland's contrasting fashion, there's the PCC BakkiSilicon plant two kilometers north of town that produces silicon metal used in high-strength aluminum alloys for the automotive industry. The metal's also a primary material in the manufacture of photovoltaic modules. It's the low cost of electrical power that brought this German company to Iceland.

Oh! Back to the Geosea Sea Baths ... They were superb! Featuring steamy geothermal water, views to die for, and a swim-up bar. On a sunny October afternoon with very few other bath goers, it was perfect.



Hverfjall Volcano Hike!

Hverfjall, on the east shore of Lake Mývatn, is a volcano that erupted 2,500 years ago. Today, a 2.7-mile rim hike around the cone rim is a fun way to get up close and personal with this very cool geologic landmark.



A Rim With a View

Looking across the Hverfjall volcano crater, you can see two people on the other side.



Fall Colors on a Rainy Day

The river Eyvindará skirts Egilsstaðir (pop. 2,600), east Iceland's largest ... and modern ... city. Though there was a drizzle of rain during our hike, the fall colors on display were the reward!



What's That! You Ask?

Well, it's a typical fall scene of the eastern fjords ... and included in the view is the Fjarðaál Aluminum Smelter ... yet another surprise of industry in Iceland. The island hosts three smelters because of the abundance of low-cost electricity (geothermal and hydroelectric power generation).

Fun fact: Aluminum smelting consumes around 70% of the country's electrical power production!



Hengifoss

At 420 feet high, Hengifoss is Iceland's third-highest waterfall. On a typically "variable weather" day, we were lucky to get to the end of the hike up to the falls before the clouds dropped down.



The Red Chair

Why is there an oversized metal red chair bolted to a rock outcrop along Iceland's SE coast? No one seems to know for sure, but the Iceland Spots website says:

"Red Chair is an intriguing public art installation located in the serene landscape of Árnessýsla county in Southern Iceland. This striking art piece, a bright red chair perched atop an isolated hill, captivates visitors with its stark contrast against the rugged and often monochromatic Icelandic terrain. It symbolizes both solitude and contemplation, inviting onlookers to pause and reflect amidst nature's grandeur."

I'm not so sure about all of that.

Our visit went like this: I turned into the small pullout, opened the car door and leapt into the wind-driven rain, took two shots, and rushed back into the car!

Whoops! I forgot to "pause and reflect amidst nature's grandeur."

Next time.



Disappearing Act!

Vestrahorn and the Stokksnes beach are also visited by hundreds of people every day. Our day there maybe wasn't as picturesque as the websites show, but the sky added a dark and moody feel to the scene.

Then again, we got lucky! The weather along the south coast changed dramatically—and quickly—during our three days there ... but Vestrahorn stubbornly stayed cloaked in cloud the other two days.



Diamond Beach!

Icebergs from the Glacier Lagoon flow out to Diamond Beach where the surf pounds them, leaving pieces of ice in all sizes strewn about. This one is the size of a truck.

What you don't see in this shot are the dozens of people along the beach also taking pictures just behind me.

What you also don't see are my very wet and cold feet. Yep! I was "that guy" who got caught by a small sneaker wave while taking WAY too many photos of this large chunk of ice.



Fjallsárlón Glacier

The Fjallsárlón Glacier along the southern coast never disappoints. It looks like icy claws extended from a volcano dragon!



Mulagljufur Canyon!

Mulagljufur Canyon is like an exotic Hawaiian canyon, only much colder. Getting there was a treat: Two miles on a road with a severe case of the potholes ... and then a stream to cross that we retreated from only to try again after watching others hop across with ease. Success! We overcame our whimpiness and were rewarded with this view! 



Rudolph!

Norwegians brought reindeer to Iceland in 1711, intending for them to be domesticated stock animals ... but WHOOPSIES! ... the reindeer had other ideas and went all feral on the Icelanders.

Today, about 3,000 roam in the east/northeast of the country ... and we were lucky enough to spot a herd along the way. 



Somewhere in Iceland There's Another Three-legged Lamb!

Lamb shanks are delicious, and I've enjoyed one on each trip! I felt bad about Mary's little lambs, but she assured me that they regenerate limbs. That makes me feel better. I might order another.



Vidar GylfasonA True Icelander!

Iceland's tourist trail is a bit insular. Many of people working in the hospitality sector are EU transplants, so it's remarkable when you get to talk to a true Icelander.

In the small village of Rif, on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the Freezer Hostel is a funky hostel and art performance center. It's pretty quiet in October, but we got coffee and struck up a conversation with the nice guy above—Vidar Gylfason. Turns out, Vidar has an interesting backstory: He created a football pitch. The CINEMA APOLLÓ website summarizes the story here:

"Twenty-five years ago, Vidar Gylfason from the tiny fishing village of Hellissandur (population: 369) in Iceland created a real-life field of dreams for his town by constructing a national FA Cup regulation football pitch, but no team ever set foot on it. Now, Vidar’s spirited son Kari is determined to bring football glory to Hellissandur and fulfill his father’s original dream."

The fun thing is that Vidar and his son play themselves in the movie. If you fly Icelandair, you can watch the film in flight!

We met other fun people along the trip too, like Eliska from the Czech Republic—our very helpful receptionist at Hótel Torg in Isafjördur—or Luis from Spain—our equally helpful receptionist at Berjaya Iceland Hotel in Höfn, or fellow photography buff Jerek and his dad, Dean, who we met in Akureyri when we overheard them mention Idaho, or the fun American couple we enjoyed happy hours with not only in Ísafjörður, but also in Akureyri and Egilsstaðir! They wish to remain anonymous, so I'll just call them Jim and Diane.


So, there you have it. Twenty-one days around the Ring Road with some Westfjords added in to top it all off!

Have we had enough of the land of fire and ice! And rain! And snow! And wind!??  
  
Oh, I think it's a safe bet we'll go back to explore more of this magic corner of the world. Maybe we'll even plant some trees to help Icelanders reach their goal.
 

Trip photos? Here you go! Two albums for your viewing pleasure.



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