Say CHEESE Please - Part Two!

And now for your viewing pleasure! ...

Round two of images from our October odyssey around Iceland's ultimate roundabout, the Ring Road!

Icelander!


To view in slideshow format:

    • Once at the album, click the right-facing arrow in the upper right of the toolbar to start the slideshow.
    • Use the slideshow controls in lower middle of the screen to navigate as the show plays (go back, go forward, pause).

There will TourAlongs in 2025!

Cheers! ~ Todd



Say CHEESE Please!

 And now for Iceland photos!

Say CHEESE Please!


Natalie photo-bombed me at a waterfall, so I'm going to photo-bomb you too ... with the first of two carefully curated albums of images from our trip around Iceland's Ring Road! 

Honestly, a blog post only tells part of the story, and these photoswith mercifully brief captionstell the rest!

To view in slideshow format:

    • Once at the album, click the right-facing arrow in the upper right corner to start the slideshow.
    • Use the slideshow controls in lower middle of the screen to navigate as the show plays (go back, go forward, pause).

Cheers! ~ Todd


Let's Road Trip on Iceland's Roundabout!

Iceland! The land of fire and ice! And rain! And snow! And wind!

Are you ready for a fun fall trip featuring Iceland's island-sized roundabout—The Ring Road? How about a proper 21-day drive in every type of weather?

Alrighty then!

Grab a mug of your favorite invigorating Nordic beverage and settle into a cozy couch.

It's time to start this TourAlong ... It's time for an encore trip to ...

Iceland!

Let's begin ... Shall we?


Iceland. Blue Sky Happens!


The Route!

The blue line marks our route, and the red dots mark places we stayed and used as homebases for day trips. Starting with the red dot at nine o'clock and moving clockwise, they were Grundarfjörður, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Höfn, and finally Reykjavik.

In this TourAlong, I've used Icelandic spelling of placenames. So, here's a fun game to play: Say the placenames out loud as you read this post ... and use your best Nordic accent. Trust me, unless you're actually Nordic, there's virtually no way you can pronounce them correctly. It's still fun though. 


Roadblock I Guess*

Iceland has a split personality: Half of the island wants to be North America and the other half wants to be Europe. It's literally tearing the island apart in a sometimes spectacular fashion. In the past year, fissure volcanos on the Reykjanes Peninsula (SW Iceland) have erupted seven times. Dormant for 800 years, this new active period may last up to 200 years.

We made a detour after leaving the Keflavik airport to see the effects of these eruptions. Pictured above is a berm built to divert lava flows away from infrastructure that Iceland would rather not have covered by molten rock. The berms have done their job so far, but I wouldn't rush out and buy land on the peninsula for, let's say, 200 years. Mark that date on your calendar.


*P.S. Kudos to anyone who gets the "Roadblock I guess" reference.


Lava? No Problem!

The volcanic eruptions have taken place near the Svartsengi geothermal power plant and the more well-known Blue Lagoon. The fact that both have not been consumed is due to two well-positioned large volcanic hills and the berms built in the past year. Still, the lava flows have come close ... and very close just weeks ago: The most recent eruption sent a river of lava to the west that completely covered the Blue Lagoon's parking lot.

Amazingly, once the lava field has crusted over, the Icelanders will be quick to lay down new roads (like the one pictured here) and parking lots. They definitely have plenty of raw material for new roads!

During our side trip, I pocketed a piece of fresh earth rock as a souvenir. I've since learned that (a) in Iceland, it's illegal to take rocks from protected areas (though this area is not one) and (b) it's illegal to bring rocks into the United States without having them inspected for microbes and such.

Uh oh!

For a brief diversion, see this five-minute video about how Iceland works to protect places like the Blue Lagoon from being buried by lava:

The Blue Lagoon Sprayed Over Glowing Lava With Good Results.



You'll Never See This Photo Anywhere Else!

Ah, the solitude of a cold sunny morning near Grundarfjörður on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Idyllic waterfalls and a pointy peak ... as long as you don't turn around.


Oh! You Turned Around!

The pointy peak in the previous image is Kirkjufell, likely the most photographed mountain in Iceland, made even MORE famous after it was featured as "Arrowhead Mountain" in the series Game of Thrones. The age of smartphones and Instagram has resulted in one thing for sure: crowds of people gathering to get the same shot.

Fun fact: Natalie took this shot. You can find me kneeling near the top of the photographer scrum.


Picture Perfect Stykkishólmur

Not far from 
Grundarfjörður is Stykkishólmur. With just 1,600 residents, Stykkishólmur spent most of its existence as a sleepy port and fishing village. More recently, it gained notoriety as a shooting location for the 2013 movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. It's a fun movie featuring a number of locations around Iceland. And this notoriety leads to another new tourism pop-culture phenomenon ...




Get Me My Costume!

This is a weird thing. And it really is "a thing" thanks to Instagram, TikTok and other photo-sharing social media platforms. The young woman pictured here was with a vanload of young tourists all focused on getting specific shots at Stykkishólmur's harbor. In this case, we watched as a young man brought her an armload of various costumes to pose in. Others in the group used a drone to video themselves walking across a street, shooting the scene several times. We witnessed this phenomenon in Switzerland last year as well.

Are the posers having fun? Yeah, I think they are. But at the risk of the pot calling the kettle black, it's annoying.

Now, where's my black crime-fighter costume? The light's perfect!



Road Trip!

Driving is fun! Driving in Iceland is fun too! Well, except sometimes. The Ring Road's two lanes are narrow, with no shoulders to speak of, and often have drop-offs that would send a vehicle tumbling in style! Guard rails? How quaint. For excitement, add powerful buffeting winds and a rental car with lane assist that you can't turn off. Now, take all of that and add occasionally snowy conditions. The fun of the drive never ends on an Iceland Ring Road trip in October.

Oh wait, here's a good one:

The day we left 
Egilsstaðir (in the east) for Höfn (in the southeast), all I had to do was get on the Ring Road—literally just outside our hotel's front door. Instead, I drove out of town on a road I was already familiar with. An hour into the drive, we found ourselves on a 20-kilometer gravel/muddy slick and curvy road on a very cold and rainy morning ... and we weren't the only ones! It wasn't so bad, but still a bit unnerving when you're not sure how bad it might get and when it will end. Have a look here: Route 939! (Note: There's no sound on the video. Sorry, I'll bet it was entertaining).


Wow! That Must Have Been One Giant Troll!

The Naustahvilft Troll Seat. That guy left quite an impression ... don't you think? His seat was our destination hike near 
Ísafjörður in the Westfjords (Iceland's NW peninsula).



Ísafjörður From the Troll Seat!

Ísafjörður (pop. 2,750) is the Westfjords' largest community and has a surprising modern feel to it. The fishing industry is big here, as well as tourism.

Fun fact: Ísafjörður's Wikipedia page shows that the town has produced 12 Olympic skiers for Iceland!



Natalie in the Troll Seat!

The trail up to the seat was steep and undefined, but the reward for an undeveloped trail was a pristine grassy boulder-strewn bowl. On the way down, Natalie slipped, got muddy, and broke her prescription sunglasses. I suggest the Troll Seat be on guard: One day Natalie will exact her revenge at a time of her choosing!



Wow! It's a Totally Cool 3D Crosswalk!

The purpose of this optical illusion is to make drivers slow down. It most definitely did not work on me when we drove into town; I didn't notice it. But later, on a walkabout, we couldn't miss it.

Today, the crosswalk is a tourist attraction. The result? Moronic tourists (us) step into the middle of the street to take photos! I guess it all works: Morons step into the street and cars have to slow down. Genius!

To see it in action, view this brief video clip: Ísfjörðaur's Floating 3D Crosswalk.

And here's what it looks like close-up:





Northern Lights, Finally!

Can you believe seeing the northern lights during the day?

Take a good look ...

Because that's definitely NOT them! Pretty vibrant clouds though, right? With vertical bands and everything!

Like our trip to Alaska last May, the aurora was on display multiple nights, but only when we were safely shielded from them by clouds. All the while, friends back home saw them several nights.

Truth be told, we saw them one night ... for about five minutes in windy 19-degree weather. We weren't compelled to hang out to see if they came back.



Hvítserkur the Troll

As the tale goes, Hvítserkur the troll was out late one night, determined to steal the bells from a nearby convent but, when caught by dawn's early light, was instantly turned to stone! According to one website, trolls, unlike elves, are terrified of Christianity. The site didn't elaborate why elves are Christian, but I'm guessing it has to do with Santa Claus. 

I prefer to think of Hvítserkur as a lumbering and very thirsty creature from Star Wars that can also shoot devastating laser beams from its eyes to destroy Imperial Fighters.

Go Hvítserkur!



Paul Bunyan Need Not Apply

Iceland DOES have forests! Once upon a time 40% of the island was covered by trees. But then people (Vikings) happened, and it hasn't been the same since. Today, about 2% of the land is forested, but there's a massive reforestation effort underway. The goal? Have 12% of the land forested by the year 2100.

I think they'll succeed. The 400,000 residents of the planet's 18th largest island seem to get things done ... in almost anything you can think of!



Akureyri

The capital of the north, Akureyri, is Iceland's second-largest city coming in at a whopping 20,000 residents!* But don't let size cloud your thoughts—Akureyri is a thoroughly modern city serving as the hub for the north. It's comfortable there.

*Technically, there are two other cities that are larger, but they're both part of the Reykjavik metro area. So yeah, Akureyri gets my #2 position.



Seeking the Smiley Face

A fun game in Akureyri (and around the country) is the speed camera challenge. If you drive too fast, you get a red frowny face. If you slow down to the speed limit in time, you get a green smiley face! 

I often had to slow down quickly to get the smiley face, but there was true satisfaction in receiving the reward!




Why? Why? Why?

Why, on every trip to Europe, do we encounter nude mannequins on parade in a store's display window? And why do I feel obligated to document these encounters through photos? The world may never know the answers to these compelling questions. One thing though: As long as store workers keep going home while mannequins remain "au natural," I'll keep documenting their work!



Oh, What a Difference a Day Makes!

Four inches of snow announced winter's arrival in north Iceland. We had a good time watching a car slowly spin out of control down our street in Akureyri. The street was soon closed. The amount of snow caught everyone off guard, but the street crews were soon on the task of clearing it up. Oddly, shoveling snow from sidewalks seemed optional; some were soon sheets of ice.

In the upper center of this photo, you can see hints of Akureyri's ski area, Hlíðarfjall.



The Queue!

Faced with the prospect of driving the second half of the Ring Road in a car equipped with all-season tires on icy roads, I sent a note to our car rental companyBlue Car Rentalsaying the tires weren't ideal.* To my surprise, Aron at Blue Car replied and told me to take our car to the Dekkjahöllin tire shop for a change-out to studded snow tires. Amazing!

The queue at the shop that afternoon was so long that police were turning people away so the road wouldn't be blocked.

The next morning I arrived at 7:00, an hour before the shop opened. I was number 21 in the queue. When they opened, it was clear the shop crew had their act together ... I had studs and was on my way at 9:10!

*The Les Schwab Tires website says: "All-season tires are designed for varied but still mild conditions, offering balanced performance from spring to fall." Note, that leaves out that other season ... winter. 



It's Beer Spa Time!

The Bjorbodin Beer Spa is just up the fjord from Akureyri. The phrase "beer spa" conjures images of bathing in ... beer! And that's actually not so far from the truth.

Here's how it works:
  1. Warm up in the outdoor hot tubs as Iceland's fridged winds whip around your head.
  2. Enter a private room to relax while soaking in the residue of some part of the beer-making process while you drink beer from a tap (drinking beer takes your mind off the fact that you're soaking in beer sludge).
  3. Spend 30 minutes relaxing in the meditation room listening to spacy new-age music.
  4. Top it off with time in the wet sauna or back in the hot tubs.
  5. There's a restaurant too ... if you're not too sleepy! Or beery! Or both!
The Bjorbodin Beer Spa claims this all has a beneficial effect. It might be to our health. It might be to their bank account. Either way ... it was fun.



A Pool With a View

You can find the Geosea - Geothermal Sea Baths on the edge of the tiny town of Húsavík, northeast of Akureyri. As you can guess, Húsavík is a fishing town. But, in Iceland's contrasting fashion, there's the PCC BakkiSilicon plant two kilometers north of town that produces silicon metal used in high-strength aluminum alloys for the automotive industry. The metal's also a primary material in the manufacture of photovoltaic modules. It's the low cost of electrical power that brought this German company to Iceland.

Oh! Back to the Geosea Sea Baths ... They were superb! Featuring steamy geothermal water, views to die for, and a swim-up bar. On a sunny October afternoon with very few other bath goers, it was perfect.



Hverfjall Volcano Hike!

Hverfjall, on the east shore of Lake Mývatn, is a volcano that erupted 2,500 years ago. Today, a 2.7-mile rim hike around the cone rim is a fun way to get up close and personal with this very cool geologic landmark.



A Rim With a View

Looking across the Hverfjall volcano crater, you can see two people on the other side.



Fall Colors on a Rainy Day

The river Eyvindará skirts Egilsstaðir (pop. 2,600), east Iceland's largest ... and modern ... city. Though there was a drizzle of rain during our hike, the fall colors on display were the reward!



What's That! You Ask?

Well, it's a typical fall scene of the eastern fjords ... and included in the view is the Fjarðaál Aluminum Smelter ... yet another surprise of industry in Iceland. The island hosts three smelters because of the abundance of low-cost electricity (geothermal and hydroelectric power generation).

Fun fact: Aluminum smelting consumes around 70% of the country's electrical power production!



Hengifoss

At 420 feet high, Hengifoss is Iceland's third-highest waterfall. On a typically "variable weather" day, we were lucky to get to the end of the hike up to the falls before the clouds dropped down.



The Red Chair

Why is there an oversized metal red chair bolted to a rock outcrop along Iceland's SE coast? No one seems to know for sure, but the Iceland Spots website says:

"Red Chair is an intriguing public art installation located in the serene landscape of Árnessýsla county in Southern Iceland. This striking art piece, a bright red chair perched atop an isolated hill, captivates visitors with its stark contrast against the rugged and often monochromatic Icelandic terrain. It symbolizes both solitude and contemplation, inviting onlookers to pause and reflect amidst nature's grandeur."

I'm not so sure about all of that.

Our visit went like this: I turned into the small pullout, opened the car door and leapt into the wind-driven rain, took two shots, and rushed back into the car!

Whoops! I forgot to "pause and reflect amidst nature's grandeur."

Next time.



Disappearing Act!

Vestrahorn and the Stokksnes beach are also visited by hundreds of people every day. Our day there maybe wasn't as picturesque as the websites show, but the sky added a dark and moody feel to the scene.

Then again, we got lucky! The weather along the south coast changed dramatically—and quickly—during our three days there ... but Vestrahorn stubbornly stayed cloaked in cloud the other two days.



Diamond Beach!

Icebergs from the Glacier Lagoon flow out to Diamond Beach where the surf pounds them, leaving pieces of ice in all sizes strewn about. This one is the size of a truck.

What you don't see in this shot are the dozens of people along the beach also taking pictures just behind me.

What you also don't see are my very wet and cold feet. Yep! I was "that guy" who got caught by a small sneaker wave while taking WAY too many photos of this large chunk of ice.



Fjallsárlón Glacier

The Fjallsárlón Glacier along the southern coast never disappoints. It looks like icy claws extended from a volcano dragon!



Mulagljufur Canyon!

Mulagljufur Canyon is like an exotic Hawaiian canyon, only much colder. Getting there was a treat: Two miles on a road with a severe case of the potholes ... and then a stream to cross that we retreated from only to try again after watching others hop across with ease. Success! We overcame our whimpiness and were rewarded with this view! 



Rudolph!

Norwegians brought reindeer to Iceland in 1711, intending for them to be domesticated stock animals ... but WHOOPSIES! ... the reindeer had other ideas and went all feral on the Icelanders.

Today, about 3,000 roam in the east/northeast of the country ... and we were lucky enough to spot a herd along the way. 



Somewhere in Iceland There's Another Three-legged Lamb!

Lamb shanks are delicious, and I've enjoyed one on each trip! I felt bad about Mary's little lambs, but she assured me that they regenerate limbs. That makes me feel better. I might order another.



Vidar GylfasonA True Icelander!

Iceland's tourist trail is a bit insular. Many of people working in the hospitality sector are EU transplants, so it's remarkable when you get to talk to a true Icelander.

In the small village of Rif, on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the Freezer Hostel is a funky hostel and art performance center. It's pretty quiet in October, but we got coffee and struck up a conversation with the nice guy above—Vidar Gylfason. Turns out, Vidar has an interesting backstory: He created a football pitch. The CINEMA APOLLÓ website summarizes the story here:

"Twenty-five years ago, Vidar Gylfason from the tiny fishing village of Hellissandur (population: 369) in Iceland created a real-life field of dreams for his town by constructing a national FA Cup regulation football pitch, but no team ever set foot on it. Now, Vidar’s spirited son Kari is determined to bring football glory to Hellissandur and fulfill his father’s original dream."

The fun thing is that Vidar and his son play themselves in the movie. If you fly Icelandair, you can watch the film in flight!

We met other fun people along the trip too, like Eliska from the Czech Republic—our very helpful receptionist at Hótel Torg in Isafjördur—or Luis from Spain—our equally helpful receptionist at Berjaya Iceland Hotel in Höfn, or fellow photography buff Jerek and his dad, Dean, who we met in Akureyri when we overheard them mention Idaho, or the fun American couple we enjoyed happy hours with not only in Ísafjörður, but also in Akureyri and Egilsstaðir! They wish to remain anonymous, so I'll just call them Jim and Diane.


So, there you have it. Twenty-one days around the Ring Road with some Westfjords added in to top it all off!

Have we had enough of the land of fire and ice! And rain! And snow! And wind!??  
  
Oh, I think it's a safe bet we'll go back to explore more of this magic corner of the world. Maybe we'll even plant some trees to help Icelanders reach their goal.
 

Trip photos? They're on the way. Look for a new post next week!

Until then ... Ciao! 

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Like the TourAlongWithTodd blog and want to keep up to date?

Email me at todd@toddchavez.com and I’ll add you to the list!

There and Back Again - A Tahoe TourAlong SingAlong

What's one way to spend the better part of a summer?

How about nine weeks at the Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival playing drums for Always ... Patsy Cline! ... the true story of Patsy's friendship with her superfan, Louise Seger.

Featuring 26 of Patsy's biggest hits, it's good fun for the entire family!


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Folks, it's SHOW TIME!

Brought to you in the ever-spectacular picture-n-caption format ...

Let's go on a TourAlong SingAlong!

Shall we?



Theater in the Great Outdoors

Above, the view from backstage at the Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival site! Theaters set in the great outdoors are amazing. So inspiring.

It really is something to be on stage ... being a part of and able to witness each live performance.

Well ... except for the nights when the wind blows, whipping the pages of your music this way and that, or the nights when dense clouds of freshly hatched tiny flying bugs - attracted to the stage's bright lights - ensure that some of them decide your nose, eyes, ears, and mouth are good places to be, or the nights when a cold front drops performance temperatures into the 50s. And then there's the night the smoke was so thick the performance was cancelled. And THEN there's the night when a squirrel ran across stage and stole the scene!

Ah yes! Theater in the great outdoors guarantees an abundance of surprises.


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Take a Good Look!

Normally the band is in the pit under the stage dressed in the most comfortable, dark attire possible. At the Tahoe venue, there's no pit, so the band is on stage. Cool!

OH NO!!!! That means costumes!

Pictured above from left to right: Chase Kessler (music director and piano), Alyssa Joy Claffey (fiddle), Esteban Anastasio (guitar), Jesse Salinas (upright bass), and MOI (drums). Yep! We've gone all in on country western attire. YEE HAW!!!!


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Tahoe Can Be Weird - Part I
The Lake Tahoe area is in many ways an outdoor paradise. A ginormous lake ideal for water sport recreation, surrounded by peaks featuring 16 ski areas, backcountry hiking, and lots of friendly bears waiting to eat everything in your pick-a-nick basket.

It's easy to see Tahoe's appeal as a getaway for California's Bay Area residents, some who have A LOT of money. 

Enjoying a current net worth of $180,000,000,000, Mark Zuckerberg is the world's 3rd wealthiest person. He got that way by giving us fun, all-absorbing time-sucking apps for free, like Facebook and Instagram. What does he get in return? He data mines our souls and then sells our digital details to eager buyers. Win-win!

So, what do you do when you have more money than imaginable? You build compounds in places like Hawaii and Tahoe.

Pictured above, Mark honored our country this 4th of July by wakesurfing on the lake in his finest water-resistant tuxedo while drinking a Coors Tall Boy and waving the American flag.

I get goose bumps every time I think of how proud he makes me to be an American.





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Speaking of Tahoe Bears

Alyssa (fiddle player) came home late one night and was greeted by the view of a bear's butt exiting through a window. While visiting, the bear ate one-half of an avocado (leaving the pit and skin) and then went upstairs and found her stash of snacks, carefully opened them and ate the snacks of choice. The bear was two-paws down on the stale tortilla chips. Meanwhile, Alyssa's roommate - at home in her own bedroom throughout this bear burglary - thought Alyssa was just being a bit noisier than usual. The next day the bear police brought an electric mat to place outside the window of intrusion. Sure enough, the bear came back, confident it had found a new source of Michelin star nourishment. The mat worked.

On another occasion, a bear entered the theater 30 minutes after our show. The crew was still there ... working on stage! They even had background music playing through the PA. No matter. The bear smelled food. They shooed it away. 10 minutes later, the bear tried again.

Persistent silly bears!




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Tahoe Can Be Weird - Part II

On the Nevada side of the lake, the wonders of nature often take a backseat to something more accessible and satisfying to many visitors: Casinos!

Besides specializing in helping you part with your money, casinos offer other ways to be entertained, in sometimes strange ways. Alas, I was performing July 6th and had no way to get to Bally's in time for the Micro Mania Midget Wrestling. My loss.

I wonder if midget wrestlers ran between the referee's legs for comic relief.

It can't be politically incorrect to write that, can it?


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Out and About!

We did get away from the hubbub of South Lake Tahoe a few times, like on this day trip to Calaveras Big Trees State Park. True to its name, there are some VERY big trees in the park. Unlike the image promoting the wrestling event at Bally's, the photo above features a full-sized human (Jessie) standing between two sequoias. Any reader of The Lord of the Rings visiting Big Trees immediately freezes at first sight of these behemoths and waits to see if the trees are really Ents.

It's hard to imagine that years ago people thought it was a good idea to cut these down. In fact, one tree in the grove was stripped of its thick bark and the bark was then shipped to the east coast and reassembled so people could "see" how big the tree was.

Oh well. Midget wrestling was OK too ... once upon a time. Oh, wait!


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Hey Whipper Snappers! TourAlong for the SingAlong!

Here's a familiar photo. But wait, there's more to it!

Always ... Patsy Cline will take the stage at the Idaho Shakespeare Festival September 6-29 every night of the week ... except Mondays. 

Yes indeed, I'll be back in full country western garb, playing Patsy's hits and, if you can believe it, SINGING BACKGROUND VOCALS!

That's right, on stage, in costume, playing drums and singing!

This is a once in a lifetime opportunity because you're not going to see me wearing a hat like this again, never mind the singing. So don't miss out!




Hey, here's an Always ... Patsy Cline trivia question for you: What's my name in the band?


1. Todd Bob

2. Sticks

3. Bob Bob

4. Drummer Man


And the answer is?

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Nope! You'll have to come see the show to find out!


Until then ... Ciao! ... and a big YEEE HAWWW!

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There's another TourAlong coming later this fall!

HINT: It's an epic return to a place we like a lot that's cold and windy!


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Like the TourAlongWithTodd blog and want to keep up to date?

Email me at todd@toddchavez.com and I’ll add you to the list!

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